"The Relay" Online Newsletter
November 2018 Issue
This is the monthly online newsletter for the car club council. All car hobbyist events are listed on this site under "Calendar." Just click on the link above to view the list of car shows and other activities.
Always nice to get something like this: "I would like thank the Car Club Council of Central Virginia for posting our cruise-in held at Sandston Baptist Church this past Sunday. We had a wonderful turn out (around 260 to 280 cars) and I give a lot of credit to this site. Thank you so much. Bill Fisher"
We have the best car event calendar in the central Virginia area and will continue to keep car hobbyists updated on events and cruises. I have deleted the cruise-ins that ended in October. There are a couple still online that will continue weather permitting. We are in November and still have a few events before the end of the year. There are 2019 events already listed. If you have a 2019 event be sure to send it in and it will get posted in the calendar. There is no need to send in 2019 cruise-ins until the end of February or the beginning of March.
At our last meeting I informed the council delegates that in 2020 the council will be 25 years old. For our 25th anniversary I asked the delegates to think about some type of celebration. I welcome your input on this also. Email any ideas you have and we will start discussing them next year.
The council will continue to monitor legislation at the General Assembly again this coming session. There will be some pre-filed bills this winter and we will post them on the VAACC website. The council pays for the Virginia Association of Car Councils website so all of Virginia's car hobbyists can see the bills being considered in the General Assembly that could affect the car hobby. Winter is coming along with the end of "car season" but we will still keep working for hobbyists and monitoring legislation.
Our next meeting will be on Monday January 28th at 6:30 PM at a location to be announced in the December newsletter.
Blackstone Cruise-In September 29th
See all the photos
Car Hobbyist News
The news this month is all federal. The General Assembly doesn’t meet until January although many items that become bills are discussed in advance. As the council has done for over 20 years we will continue to monitor federal and state proposed actions that may affect our car hobby.
First up is some news you may not have heard about. The news media is fixated on the mid-term election and can’t seem to follow more than a couple of stories at a time. In October President Donald Trump announced that he was going to have the EPA begin rule-making to allow the sale of E15 gasoline year round. I’m sure as a car hobbyist you recall the Obama EPA coming up with selling E15 gasoline and then working for months on labeling. The EPA gave in to lobbying by ethanol companies to allow the sale of E15. What also played a part was the Renewable Fuels Standard (RFS) passed under George W. Bush to increase the amount of renewable fuel (ethanol) put in gasoline every year. Then came the recession in 2008 which decreased driving which meant less gasoline and lower amounts of renewables. Congress should have updated the law but has failed to take action. Labeling was needed because the use of E15 in air cooled engines and older engines that aren’t “flex fuel” could cause serious engine damage. The EPA came up with the labeling requirements and the fuel is now for sale at a few stations in our area. But the EPA also banned the sale of E15 during the summer because it felt the fuel would cause more smog. There are those in the ethanol industry who disagree.
Trump is asking the EPA to re-write rules to allow E15 to be sold year round. This is to help farmers because corn prices have fallen. Trump’s so called trade wars have lowered corn prices. Selling E15 year round will help boost corn prices which not only help farmers but help consumers who purchase products containing corn and corn syrup. E15 does cost a little less than E10 gasoline which tempts people to use it in their vehicles. E15 produces less power and decreased gas mileage. Depending on several factors it may or may not be a better bargain than using E10 gasoline.
Car hobbyists were upset about the introduction of E15 gasoline. The damage that could be caused to engines by using it and the fear that one day the government would replace E10 with E15. If that happened then it would be difficult to run old engines on the E15 gasoline. Most car hobbyists want less or no ethanol in gas, not more.
It will take some time but I’m sure the EPA will approve the plan to sell E15 gasoline year round. This is from one of the ethanol groups that pushed for E15: "It's wonderful for the American farmer. It's great for biofuels producers. And it's great for the American consumer, so we're thrilled," said Emily Skor, CEO of Growth Energy, a Washington, D.C., ethanol advocacy group. Skor said increased adoption of higher ethanol blends could boost corn use by 2 billion bushels.
From President Trump: “We’re going to be going probably, probably to 15 and we’re going to be going to a 12-month period,” Trump told reporters during a White House meeting. “We’re going to work out something during the transition period, which is not easy, very complicated.”
Keep in mind that under the RFS, the EPA sets the volume of ethanol and other biofuels that must be mixed into the nation’s fuel supply on a yearly basis - and a move to expand E15 sales could encourage the EPA to set those volumes higher in coming years a move that isn’t good for hobbyists with older vehicles. What we really need is Congress to take action on the RFS and honest studies to determine if gasoline with ethanol really does reduce smog and pollution compared to gasoline without ethanol. Also keep in mind that one reason ethanol was put in gasoline was to reduce dependence on foreign oil. Today it appears we don’t need to worry about that anymore.
Second is another rule that appears stalled in DC. This is from SEMA: “Congress passed a 2015 law to remove regulatory barriers that have prevented you from purchasing turn-key classic replica cars. While the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) had until December 2016 to implement the law, they haven’t even published a draft regulation. It’s time for the federal government to get out of the way, so that you can purchase a brand-new replica vehicle. DOT Secretary Elaine Chao needs to hear from you!”
At least in my opinion it doesn’t appear that Congress gets much done other than grand standing for TV cameras. If you’d like to contact the DOT about the sale of replica cars this is the link:
Next month we will begin monitoring the pre-filed bills for the General Assembly. We will watch for anything that would affect the car hobby.
19th Annual Southern Knights Cruisers Veterans Car and Bike Show
See all the photos
7 Tempting Classics Still Under $10K
by Andrew Newton at Hagerty
You don’t have to be rich to get into the collector car hobby, and even those on a tight budget have an almost dizzying amount of choices. Lots of driver-quality #3 (Good) condition classics are out there for under five figures. Some are getting more expensive, however, and not all the cars on this list may be cheap forever.
1976–86 Jeep CJ-7
Average values are $8700 for a #3-condition car
The Jeep CJ-7 was more agile on the trail than the CJ-6 it replaced, and it was intended to be a more civilized and luxurious version of the CJ-5, so it strikes a good balance of capable utilitarian runabout and reasonably comfortable truck. Given the big growth in the vintage truck market over the past couple of years, it should come as no surprise that interest is growing around the most famous off-roaders of them all. All the metrics that make up the Hagerty Vehicle Rating are up for the CJ-7, and its overall rating has risen four points in two months.
1993–2000 Mercedes-Benz W202
Average values are $3750 for a #3-condition car
While they don’t have as devoted a following as the equivalent 3 Series BMWs, the C-Class Mercedes-Benzes of the 1990s have seen a jump in buyer interest and more are being added to insurance policies. Prices have remained remarkably low but show signs of picking up, and they can’t really get much cheaper than they currently are. Yes, there’s really no such thing as a “cheap Mercedes,” but the point of entry is temptingly low and, unlike later Benzes, the W202 is a car that you can still do some basic wrenching on yourself if so inclined.
1961–64 Oldsmobile 88
Average values are $9200 for a #3-condition car
Oldsmobile introduced a completely new and thoroughly more modern version of its full-size 88 in 1961. Being on the expensive end when new, 1961–64 Olds 88s are also fairly well equipped and surprisingly streetable today. They offer sharp ’60s styling and big V-8s that are unencumbered by later pollution controls. Despite that, they haven’t gotten much attention until a recent surge in buyer interest, which makes the 88 a standout in an otherwise relatively flat market for domestic cars of this era.
1961–64 Pontiac Catalina
Average values are $9200 for a #3-condition car
Pontiacs of all types have been getting quite a bit of love on the market lately, and the handsome full-size Catalina isn’t being ignored. Cars with factory high-horsepower engines unfortunately stretch past our 10 grand threshold, but on average their prices are still in four-figure territory for good drivers, making it a lot of car for the money, both literally and figuratively.
1967–71 Ford Thunderbird
Average values are $9400 for a #3-condition car
It’s easy to overlook the fifth-generation “Big Bird” Thunderbirds, as four-seat Thunderbird prices haven’t been doing much of anything lately, but the 1967–71 cars have been experiencing a surge in buyer interest and more being added to insurance policies.
With a big-block 429 engine as well as sharp styling and rear suicide doors on the sedan model (à la Lincoln Continental), the fifth-gen Thunderbird is another one that offers a lot of car and a lot of style for the money.
1979–85 Mazda RX-7
Average values are $7300 for a #3-condition car
We’ve touched on the first-gen RX-7 before, but its Hagerty Vehicle Rating is still on the rise. This is largely thanks to prices that continue to increase, but these little rotary-powered two-seaters are still comfortably on the affordable side of the spectrum, unlike the now-expensive Datsun 240Z that also turned the sports car world on its ear just a decade before. There are plenty of ratty examples out there, but a solid driver-quality RX-7 with a few miles on it that has been owned by someone who understands the rotary engine idiosyncrasies will offer a lot of mostly trouble-free-fun per dollar.
1984–95 Mercedes-Benz W124
Average values are $5100 for a #3-condition car
Because Mercedes-Benzes in the ’80s were built like tanks, there are still plenty of them on the road to choose from. The W124 was the first car to be officially referred to as the E-Class, and was the platform that Porsche used to build the famous 500E. That car is way out of our budget here, of course, but the normal W124s are definitely still attainable and can outperform some of the “sportier” cars of the day, like the Porsche 944 and Chevy Camaro. The W124 helped pioneer a lot of automotive features that we take for granted today, like 4Matic all-wheel drive, five-link rear suspension, and an oxygen sensor fitted to the exhaust. With coupes, sedans, turbo-diesel wagons, and a rare five-speed manual available, there’s also a lot of variety.
5th Annual Beyond The Call of Duty Car, Truck, & Bike Show
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Valve Stem Seals
I am going to install a new set of valve cover gaskets on the 360 in my '79 Chrysler 300 (Cordoba). While I have the valve covers off, I am going to also replace the valve stem seals. The original seals have likely crumbled to pieces after years of heat, exposure to oil and wear. There is a puff of blue exhaust smoke when the engine is first started, a symptom of leaking or missing valve stem seals. New valve seals will allow oil to lubricate the valve stems and valve guides but help prevent excessive oil consumption and carbon buildup. Seeing all RockAuto's valve stem seal choices, I researched the vocabulary manufacturers use to describe their valve stem seals.
There are two common types of valve stem seals. The first type is called umbrella, shedder or deflector. These valve seals move up and down with the valve stem and are common on older engines.
The second type of valve stem seal is called "positive." Positive type valve seals stay fixed at the top of the valve guide and wipe off excess oil as the valve stem slides through the seal. On some engine heads, OE umbrella type seals can be replaced with positive type seals, but some head designs may require machining.
Manufacturers often advertise the materials they use in their valve stem seals. I cannot make sweeping statements about one material being superior to another in all circumstances. Some materials may make better gaskets, but a valve seal is not supposed to seal like a gasket. Some oil needs to slip by to lubricate the valve stem and guide. There may be enhanced versions of materials that can make them better for use in certain applications. For example, hydrogenated nitrile rubber resists high temperatures better than non-hydrogenated nitrile rubber. Fluorosilicone resists chemicals better than plain silicone.
Polyacrylate (top), Viton & Silicone
valve stem seals with "garter springs"
Here is some general information about common materials manufacturers draw attention to:
Polyacrylate, nitrile and fluoroelastomer are all synthetic rubbers resistant to heat and oil. Viton™ is the brand name for a line of fluoroelastomers optimized for specific applications.
PTFE, branded Teflon™, is resistant to extreme temperatures, almost all chemicals (including oil) and abrasion. It is typically less able to retain its shape if deformed during installation or use.
Nylon has a low coefficient of friction, high strength, is abrasion resistant and resists chemicals. It may be less able to withstand extreme heat.
Silicone withstands extreme temperatures, retains its shape and resists oxidation and ozone. It may be less resistant to abrasion.
A valve stem seal is really a complete design rather than one material. A design might use different materials for the main body of the seal and the "lips" that actually contact the valve stem. Some designs use a "garter spring" to tension the seal opening so it maintains the correct amount of interference with a wider range of valve stem diameters. Some valve seal designs use metal cladding to protect the valve seal and help maintain its shape.
The great news is that especially for an old engine like mine, all of RockAuto's valve seal choices use modern materials and/or designs that are better than new OE seals and infinitely better than used-up crumbling OE seals! Find valve stem seals and tools (valve spring compressors, valve holders, etc.) under "Engine" for specific vehicles and in the "Tools & Universal Parts" tab.
Spencer's Store Cruise In
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Repair Mistakes & Blunders
From Rock Auto
In the summer of 2002, a good friend of mine purchased a 1993 Toyota pickup 4WD that was a little rougher for the wear. Being a somewhat typical teenager, he focused more on the truck's aesthetics before focusing on reliability concerns. He chose a handmade pipe bumper, secondhand larger off-road wheels and tires, body lift and any other reasonably cheap modification to help realize his budget-minded dreams of what the truck should look like.
One day he calls me and tells me he has a bad CV joint on the front driver side. He can tell by the location the sound is coming from. We worked for hours (still rookie mechanics at this time) that evening trying to remove the axle, with little luck. While taking a breather, I leaned on the front of the truck and heard a squeak! He turned his head and asked me to do it again.
As it turns out, we did not need to change the CV joint at all. In his hurried application of the homemade front bumper, he did not use any lock washers! The squeak was from the bumper having loosened itself during normal driving for the last couple of weeks. I hurriedly applied the lock washers while loudly condemning his decision to skip said item. We finished the CV joint replacement the next morning and drove around the block to confirm the fix.
I now make sure I replicate problems and verify the source before jumping headlong into a repair.
Zach in Iowa
Free VIN Check
If you are looking for a late model used car then you will want to get a report on that vehicle to discover its history. The two most common are Carfax™ and AutoCheck®. The problem? You have to pay for the reports. A single Carfax™ report costs $39.99. Three will cost you $79.99, and five sell for $99.99. An AutoCheck® single report is $24.99. But I found three places where you can get a report for FREE! Sure they aren't as detailed as the ones you pay for but they will disclose big problems.
The first is the NICB - National Insurance Crime Bureau. It will let you know if the car is stolen or had major damage. I was looking at a car on Craigslist and the person put the VIN in the ad. The ad stated that the car was completely repainted and had tinted glass installed a few years ago and looked great. I pasted the VIN into NICB and it came back that the car was in a serious accident eight years ago. I guess that is why the paint job and window tint (may have had broken glass replaced). You can get the free VIN check at this site https://www.nicb.org/how-we-help/vincheck.
There are two other sites that offer free VIN checks. Vehicle History at https://www.vehiclehistory.com - click on VIN check and then follow the instructions. I put in a truck that I have owned for over 8 years. It came back no accidents but there were 7 recalls. I checked the recalls and some of them weren't even for the truck and the ones that were for the vehicle were before I bought it. Just basic info but it is free.
Next is a site called I See Cars at https://www.iseecars.com/vin. When I put in my truck's VIN I got a lot of info about value, estimated mileage, a link to check to see if there were any recalls and a link to check if the vehicle was stolen. That link goes to the NICB that I mentioned above. This one had less info and even had a link to get a Carfax™ report.
If you've ever seen a Carfax™ report then you know it has registration info, number of owners, dates of service and the city and state the vehicle was garaged. It also alerts you to accidents and odometer discrepancies. It contains interesting information but unless it has something bad then I don't think it's worth the money plus the NICB check will show any really bad stuff.
As another test I put the VIN of a car on Ebay Motors that the seller had posted the complete Carfax™ report into the NICB. It came back clean with no theft and no total loss record. Keep in mind that vehicles can be "fixed" by people who are not in the automotive industry and no report will have those fixes. But as a free quickie check to make sure the vehicle has not been stolen or totaled those reports are good enough for most of us.
Virginia Classic Cruisers Halloween Show
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The Best Tips For Winter Car Storage and Care
From Hagerty by Jeff Peak
Just when you thought you’d heard every suggestion and clever tip for properly storing your classic automobile, along comes another recommendation—or two, or three.
As you can imagine, we’ve shared plenty of ideas and advice about winter storage over the years. Some of those annual recommendations are repeated here. And some have been amended—for example, the fragrance of dryer sheets is way more pleasing to our noses than the stench of moth balls, and the fresh smell actually does a superior job of repelling mice.
Finally, each year we receive tried-and-true suggestions from our readers that we just have to share. Last fall our resident do-it-yourself mechanic Rob Siegel received plenty of kudos for his winter prep story, which included some valuable myth busting, and his story also drew a number of storage ideas from readers.
Armed with information old and new, here are our top tips for storing your classic vehicle. Did we miss something important? Let us know in the comments section below. We’re all in this together.
Wash and wax
It may seem fruitless to wash the car when it is about to be put away for months, but it is an easy step that shouldn’t be overlooked. Water stains or bird droppings left on the car can permanently damage the paint. Make sure to clean the wheels and undersides of the fenders to get rid of mud, grease and tar. For added protection, give the car a coat of wax and treat any interior leather with a good conditioner.
Even though your classic is stored in the garage in semi-stable temperatures and protected from the elements, a car cover will keep any spills or dust off of the paint. It can also protect from scratches while moving objects around the parked car.
If you will be storing the vehicle for longer than 30 days, consider getting the oil changed. Used engine oil has contaminants that could damage the engine or lead to sludge buildup. (And if your transmission fluid is due for a change, do it now too. When spring rolls around, you’ll be happy you did.)
Before any extended storage period, remember to fill the gas tank to prevent moisture from accumulating inside the fuel tank and to keep the seals from drying out. You should also pour in fuel stabilizer to prevent buildup and protect the engine from gum, varnish and rust. This is especially critical in modern gasoline blended with ethanol, which gums up more easily. The fuel stabilizer will prevent the gas from deteriorating for up to 12 months.
This is another area where fresh fluids will help prevent contaminants from slowly wearing down engine parts. If it’s time to flush the radiator fluid, doing it before winter storage is a good idea. Whether or not you put in new antifreeze, check your freezing point with a hydrometer or test strips to make sure you’re good for the lowest of winter temperatures.
An unattended battery will slowly lose its charge and eventually go bad, resulting in having to purchase a new battery in the spring. The easiest, low-tech solution is to disconnect the battery cables—the negative (ground) first, then the positive. You’ll likely lose any stereo presets, time, and other settings. If you want to keep those settings and ensure that your battery starts the moment you return, purchase a trickle charger. This device hooks up to your car battery on one end, then plugs into a wall outlet on the other and delivers just enough electrical power to keep the batter topped up. Warning: Do not use a trickle charger if you’re storing your car off property. In rare cases they’ve been known to spark a fire.
For general driving use it is a good idea to use the parking brake, but don't do it when you leave a car in storage long term; if the brake pads make contact with the rotors for an extended period of time, they could fuse together. Instead of risking your emergency brake, purchase a tire chock or two to prevent the car from moving.
If a vehicle is left stationary for too long, the tires could develop flat spots from the weight of the vehicle pressing down on the tires’ treads. This occurs at a faster rate in colder temperatures, especially with high-performance or low-profile tires, and in severe cases a flat spot becomes a permanent part of the tire, causing a need for replacement. If your car will be in storage for more than 30 days, consider taking off the wheels and placing the car on jack stands at all four corners. With that said, some argue that this procedure isn’t good for the suspension, and there’s always this consideration: If there’s a fire, you have no way to save your car.
If you don’t want to go through the hassle of jack stands, overinflate your tires slightly (2–5 pounds) to account for any air loss while it hibernates, and make sure the tires are on plywood, not in direct contact with the floor.
A solid garage will keep your car dry and relatively warm, conditions that can also attract unwanted rodents during the cold winter months. There are plenty of places in your car for critters to hide and even more things for them to destroy. Prevent them from entering your car by covering any gaps where a mouse could enter, such as the exhaust pipe or an air intake; steel wool works well for this. Next, spread scented dryer sheets or Irish Spring soap shavings inside the car and moth balls around the perimeter of the vehicle. For a more proactive approach, also lay down a few mouse traps (although you’ll need to check regularly for casualties).
In order to save money, you might be tempted to cancel your auto insurance when your vehicle is in storage. Bad idea. If you remove coverage completely, you’ll be on your own if there’s a fire, the weight of snow collapses the roof, or your car is stolen. If you have classic car insurance, the policy covers a full year and takes winter storage into account in your annual premium.
•“A good friend of mine and ex-Ferrari race mechanic (Le Mans three times) recommends adding half a cup of automatic transmission fluid to the fuel tank before topping up, and then running the engine for 10 minutes. This applies ONLY to carburetor cars. The oil coats the fuel tank, lines and carb bowls and helps avoid corrosion. It will easily burn off when you restart the car.”
•A warning regarding car covers: “The only time I covered was years ago when stored in the shop side of my machine shed. No heat that year and the condensation from the concrete caused rust on my bumpers where the cover was tight. The next year I had it in the dirt floor shed and the mice used the cover ties as rope ladders to get in.”
•“I use the right amount of Camguard in the oil to protect the engine from rust. It’s good stuff.”
•“Your car’s biggest villain is rust, that’s why I clean the car inside and out, and wax it prior to putting it in storage. For extra protection, I generously wax the bumpers and other chrome surfaces, but I do not buff out the wax. Mildew can form on the interior; to prevent this I treat the vinyl, plastic, and rubber surfaces with a product such as Armor All.
•“Ideally, your car should be stored in a clean, dry garage. I prepare the floor of the storage area by laying down a layer of plastic drop cloth, followed by cardboard. The plastic drop cloth and cardboard act as a barrier to keep the moisture that is in the ground from seeping through the cement floor and attacking the underside of my car.”
•“Fog out the engine. I do this once the car is parked where it is to be stored for the winter, and while it is still warm from its trip. Remove the air cleaner and spray engine fogging oil into the carburetor with the engine running at a high idle. Once I see smoke coming out of the exhaust, I shut off the engine and replace the air cleaner. Fogging out the engine coats many of the internal engine surfaces, as well as the inside of the exhaust with a coating of oil designed to prevent rust formation.”
Relax, rest, and be patient
For those of us who live in cold weather states, there’s actually a great sense of relief when you finally complete your winter prep and all of your summer toys are safely put to bed before the snow flies. Relax; you’ve properly protected your classic. It won’t be long before the snow is waist high and you’re longing for summer—and that long wait may be the most difficult part of the entire storage process. Practice patience and find something auto-related to capture your attention and bide your time. You’ll be cruising again before you know it. (Keep telling yourself that anyway.)
Does Hitting The Redline Help or Hurt Your Car?
From Hagerty by Brett Lirones
There’s an old tale that Ferrari mechanics would often run their clients’ cars up to redline for extended periods after servicing to break loose the carbon deposits within the engine—a process that became known as the “Italian tuneup.” But just how effective is this technique at removing carbon buildup? Engineering Explained’s Jason Fenske explores three key areas to determine if there would be any benefit to periodically redlining your engine.
The first consideration is the temperature at which carbon deposits form. Fenske cites research indicating that these deposits generally latch on between 195–290°C (about 380–550°F for imperial users), with highest levels occurring at 200°C (392°F). These temps are pretty hot, but certainly within the normal operating range for components in a modern-gasoline-powered engine.
But how much heat is needed before those deposits begin to deteriorate? As it turns out, internal temperatures need to reach a toasty 325°C (617°F) before decarboxylation occurs, effectively breaking down existing carbon buildup and preventing new deposits from forming.
As for whether an engine can reach those lofty temps, the answer is complicated. While pistons and exhaust valves can easily meet or exceed those numbers, intake valves generally run on the cooler side of the spectrum. Cars equipped with an upstream fuel source, such as port fuel injection, might have trouble getting hot enough to start the breakdown process. Newer direct fuel injected engines actually saw increased carbon deposits with higher engine loads.
So while we can conclude that pistons and exhaust valves might benefit from a few hard runs to redline under load, it’s not 100-percent clear if intake valves would see the same perks from doing so. Research aside, however, we do know that zinging your car to redline will result in big smiles and increased happiness.
Support the RPM Act
Sign at this link: www.votervoice.net/SEMA/campaigns/45394/respond
2017 marks a new session of Congress. Bills that did not become law at the end of 2016 must be reintroduced for consideration.
UPDATE TO THE RPM ACT - click link below
Protect Your Right to Buy Ethanol Free Fuel
Below is a link to Fuel Testers - a website that is opposed to more ethanol in gasoline and would like to preserve our ability to purchase gasoline free of ethanol.
Flamed and Blown Willys
DMV Titling Information
As promised I have a document about titling antique vehicles posted below for download. This contains information from the DMV speakers at the August 2015 meeting and some other information that I hope you will find useful. If in doubt about anything email or call the DMV administrators in the document; I have their contact information listed. And for the millionth time be sure to check to see if the VIN matches the VIN on the vehicle before buying it. This can save you a lot of trouble - just ask anyone who has purchased a vehicle without a matching VIN. There is also valuable info on purchasing an older vehicle from a non-title state. If you are thinking about buying a vehicle from a non-title state be sure to read it. Link to the document: Antique Vehicle Titling and Registration. I also have a bill of sale for use in buying or selling an antique vehicle: Bill of Sale; and a bill of sale for use if the signatures need to be notarized: Bill of Sale.
You may also find these links useful. The following link goes to the National Insurance Crime Bureau where you can put in a VIN that will be checked for fraud and theft at no cost. The link is www.nicb.org/theft_and_fraud_awareness/vincheck. You should do some research on the vehicle you are thinking about buying, check the VIN to make sure it matches the vehicle and of course make sure the VIN on the vehicle and title match.
The next link goes to Stolen Car Reports, another free service. At this site you can register a stolen vehicle. You can also search a zip code, city or area for the vehicles that were stolen from that area. The link is www.stolencarreports.com/report/Search.
Antique Plate Info Flyer Online
The council delegates have approved the flyer with information on antique plates and a link to it is online here: flyer opens to a new window. Council members and antique owners may print the flyer for their own reference or distribute it to those who own or are considering registering a vehicle as an antique. It will remain on the site for an undetermined time. Council delegates will review the effectiveness of the flyer at a later date.
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